From Giza, head 15 miles south to see the Step Pyramid near the village of Saqqara. Completed around 2650 BC, a century before the Great Pyramid, this is the oldest pyramid of all and one of the most beautiful. The pyramid's interior is closed to the public, but a few steps away there is something even more memorable. While the pharaohs were building pyramids, their courtiers were creating elaborate tombs for themselves. One of the best, built by a man called Mereruka, contains 32 chambers. On their walls, the courtier celebrated his life, from hunting in the marshes to listening to his daughter play the harp. Seeing these scenes, the millennia separating us from these individuals melt away.
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