第1个回答 2014-01-13
旗袍起源于中国古代北方少数民族穿的一种长袍。这种长袍没有明显的男女分别,现在英语中仍把旗袍音译为"长衫"(cheongsam)。为了起到保暖作用,这种服装有一种较高和很紧的衣领。旗袍继承了长袍衣的特征,但这种衣领不仅仅为了御寒,更多的是为了美观。
Chipau stems from a kind of long robe worn by both men and women of the north minority nationalities in China. To keep warm, the collar of the costume was made high and tight-fitting. Chipau has incorporated this feature, not just for preventing coldness but for beauty.
旗袍的衣领多呈弧形左右对称,夸张地表现女性颈部柔软、纤细的特点。同时与妇女的唇、颚相映成趣,在相互呼应中描绘女性的性感。
The collar of chipau generally takes the shape of a semicircle, its right and left sides being symmetrical, flattering the soft and slender neck of a woman. Also, against the woman's lips and chin, it brings out her sex appeal.
旗袍的胸襟很普通,它是松弛而又紧绷的。更确切地说,旗袍的胸襟是恰到好处地笼在女性的胸部。旗袍的胸襟设计是单纯而流畅的杰作,简洁的前胸大襟上全无装饰,一带而过。旗袍在交代妇女隆起的胸部时采用了避实就虚的设计手法,把整个女性身体视为一个联系性很强的整体,通过腰肢纤细的设计而突现胸部的丰腴;通过背的平展而夸前胸的波型。
The front of chipau is rather ordinary, loose and tight. To be more exact, its bust girth is appropriate. The design of the front of chipau is simple and flowing without any decoration. To display the protruding breast of a woman, the designers make the waist girth appear as thin as possible to represent the high breast indirectly; by means of the flat back of chipau they highlight the wavy shape of the breast.
旗袍的袖型是多种多样的。首先是无袖,与"笼酥胸、罩蜂腰"的旗袍封闭特征相反,无袖旗袍将妇女的"玉臂","藕腕"袒露于外,一方面不乏服装的凉爽,另一方面也蕴含了设计者巨大的创想力。还有直袖、半袖、喇叭袖、双层袖等等类型。
Chipaus may have a variety of sleeves. Consider chipau without sleeves first. Quite contrary to the traditional chipau with a protrusive front and tiny waist, sleeveless, chipau exposes a woman's slender arms, making her feel comfortably cool, on the other hand, showing the ingenuity of the designer. For example, there are long-length sleeves, elbow-length sleeves, cornet sleeves, double sleeves, etc.
旗袍的袖口变化最多,其各类型范例不胜枚举。旗袍的袖口与女性的手部与腕部相连接,旨在渲染女性手的柔软娇嫩与其能够表达丰富感情的阴柔美感。
The cuffs of chipau are so varied that they are too numerous to mention one by one. The cuffs set off women's hands and wrists, to reveal the delicacy of their hand and their feminine beauty expressive of rich sentiment.
旗袍多有两个高大的开衩,一来是为了行动方便,另一方面则是为了表现女性修长的双腿。双开衩的旗袍非比短裙,它并不是明晃晃地把女性双腿全部暴露在外,而是在走动中,时隐时现的表现女性的腿部。旗袍对于腿部的表现力是十分丰富的,也是审美想象最复杂,最活跃的部分。
Chipau generally has two big openings at either side of the hem for convenient movement and display of the slender legs of women. Unlike a short-length skirt, the openings of chipau expose a woman's legs indistinctly when she walks. Chipau can express the elegance of a woman's legs vividly and involve the most complicated and active aesthetic imagination.